Utilizing Your Body Language and capacity to create spatial pressure in Dog Training.
When applied successfully spatial pressure between a dog and handler can look a bit like magic or some form of telepathy to an onlooker.
When applied poorly your just some fool making random “shhhht, shhhht.” noises and flailing about.
It can be a tough balance to strike, but for a dog reading your body language and responding to it is instinctual. Verbal Cues are more learned responses. Here are a few tips to help you better master your body language to best help your dogs training.
1. Be Proud and Confident
Confidence is contagious, if your walking a pup keep your shoulders back, head up, but arms relaxed and swinging. If you are struggling with this do something before your walk that’s boosts your confidence, maybe try a wonder women, or superman pose before going for a walk. Eat a healthy breakfast, and wear your comfiest walking shoes. Walk with a sense of purpose. You know where your going and you and your pup are going to own this walk!
Don’t get too caught up in the mechanics of walking remember your supposed to be projecting a relaxed confident feel and you know how to walk. Whilst you may be projecting control, and confidence Your not projecting a dominant, undeniably in command image through out the day.
2.Command attention as needed not 24/7
Have you ever seen a dog trainer get a non verbal “Sit” from a dog and wondered how on earth they did that?
Are you stuck constantly luring a treat over your dogs head to get the “Sit” if the verbal command fails?
The concept of commanding attention to get a “Sit” is very similiar to the reason luring the treat up makes the butt go down.
Let me explain, when a trainer gets a non verbal sit from a dog they subtly and sometimes less subtly move their body upward. Whilst remaining calm and assertive. When I do it I stretch my spine and stand as tall as I can, often times my right hand will come up with my body almost as if I am pulling up an imaginary leash. If the moment feels right, I might snap my fingers as well.
I’m commanding the dogs attention upward so as the dogs head goes up to look at me, the butt goes down.
It’s important to note that in this moment it is likely the dog is responding to spatial pressure.
3. Give Feed Back to the Dog Using Space.
Feed back is the key to dog training. If your dogs ever going to learn anything you need to let them know when they are right and when they are making a mistake. Tools are good for this, but spatial pressure is an option you almost always have.
Claim space to apply pressure, step into the dog and keep at it until the dog is ceding the space and ideally offering a behavior you like. This is great as your introducing marker words and “Place”. For introducing “Nope” and duration to “Place” you can say “Nope” and step toward the dog essentially backing them into “Place” For dogs that jump toward you in an over excited way instead of trying to back up step toward the dog.
Give space back. I can not stress enough how important it is to release any spatial pressure you apply once you get the behavior you want. Mark with “Good” as you step back. This gets the dog used to the verbal cues us humans like, but by stepping back and releasing your stance a bit your indicating to the dog that they are doing well or in the clear. This is crucial feedback for the dog.
Be especially mindful of the spatial pressure you apply when introducing the concept “Good”. You only want pressure to be on the dog as they make the error. A common way to confuse a dog learning duration is to keep pressure on once the dog is in the position they are meant to hold. You want the dog holding position by choice because they understand duration and not because you are adding pressure.
4. Use motion!
Motion is fun! Motion taps into some of the dogs natural instincts and it can be more rewarding than or even add value to a treat. Dogs also for the most part are inherently interested in following motion. When first introducing recall run backwards, when rewarding on “Yes” get a bit of a chase going for a treat. When teaching heel break into a sprint occasionally. Stay interesting and fun, be engaging and never be afraid to use your movement to help a dog figure out a new expection. If the dog is struggling with Place don’t be afraid to run at it, and over it to get the dog wanting to move with you.
5. Stay In Tune with Your Dog.
Remember all of this body language is meant to be communicative and helpful to the dog. You don’t want to be going too fast or painfully slow. To get the most out of body language in dog training you have to listen to your dog. Don’t just go through the motions but pay attention to what your dog is responding to, and what pace you need to be moving.
Sometimes staying intune with your dog means going big, exaggerating your movement, it also means stopping and stuttering. These awkward moments precede the smooth and fluid movement you may have imagined when you begin teaching new concepts.
To get better at pacing your motion and having your body language be related to the dog practice luring and chasing with food where the dogs either nibbling or almost nibbling on the reward as they work. This was especially helpful for me with the step back into a heel position.
5. Strike an Actual Balance
Ensure you are using nonverbal communication to say both “Yes” and “No”, as well as “Go There”and “Come here.”
Avoid falling into a pattern of only using it as a correction, or only using it as a reward.
Always Remember
Spatial pressure and body language are guidance meant to add clarity to your dogs ability to follow and understand you.
Don’t feel discouraged if it feels unnatural or you need more practice.
Know that you will make mistakes. Understand there will be times you point and step toward “Place” but say “Here”
